Before the decisive assault

The world-renowned climber Valery Babanov gave an exclusive interview with special correspondent HPCru Andrei Kuznetsov in the Himalayas. As you know, Valerie is now preparing for a decisive assault on an impregnable wall of Meru Central, or as it is often called "shark fins". Interview, which we received yesterday, was transferred via satellite using a satellite phone Nera Worldphone and Pocket PC Cassiopeia E-125. HPCru: Valery as mood and health before the storm? Valery Babanov: The mood is good, feel even better. True, sorry I did not have time to finish reading a book. HPCru: Is there any sign, which may affect the success of the ascent, and which do you trust? VB: Will none. Importantly - the weather. When I went on a new route to the Grand Zharas, I fell into a crevasse, missed eight (rope). Then the avalanche ... These are the signs were, and climb it came out very classy. HPCru: What do you think should be done before you step up the route, or, as you say, tear: check your rope and insurance, to pray, or something else? VB: Pray it never hurts. Come and check out all too:) HPCru: How far will need to go to the top of the separation point? VB: According to preliminary calculations - about 600-700 meters of ice, and then more work on the ridge. HPCru: Why did you give up your first route, and chose the spring path of the Americans? VB: Yes, this route has been declared in the spring of Takeda and Sheldon, but really they were not on it. First they tried to pass through my spring, but then was taken to traverse the claimed route. Due to bad weather and higher they go, and went down. The maximum point reached by the Americans - 5900-5950 m. It must be said that the mountain has changed dramatically since the spring. The lower part of the old route became very kamneopasnoy. So, in my opinion, today the route of ascent on the right buttress seems more appropriate. HPCru: And can it be like to change something on the spot on the wall, if you fail the weather? VB: The route chosen, and in my opinion, it is very logical. And half of the route I have already passed. True, there might be a correction of ice - everything will depend on the snow cornices on the ridge. HPCru: How long can you stay on the platform under the weather? VB: Even though you like, until you run out of food, gas, and, most importantly, the mood. HPCru: How many days do you plan to spend on the ascent of the route? VB: The lower part of the required 5-day work. The upper part in good weather expected for 3 to 4 days. But it is only on estimates, on the spot to be seen. In general, hard to tell because the top had no one there. HPCru: Will you, being on the wall to be interested in letters from home or simply do not have time? VB: Of course I will! For me very important support from home. Between me and Igor will be a constant radio contact, and every day he would send and retrieve mail. HPCru: How will the descent? VB: Two days. HPCru: What do you feel, hanging over a precipice, while paving the route? VB: This is a complex conglomerate of feelings. This includes everything: the terror and ecstasy of freedom, and the feeling that you're the first ... Well, a lot more then. HPCru: A approaching the top of the sensations change? VB: Yes, of course. Gradually begin to understand that victory is somewhere nearby. It must be very careful at such moments it is hard to turn back - you rveshsya to the top. But the feeling of closeness, of course, gives strength. HPCru: Valery, and you are worried, who took on the trip? VB: There is a little bit. Each route, the more new and complex - a step into the unknown. HPCru: How would you rate your chances of success? VB: I do not want to talk about it. HPCru: Where do you usually draws its strength, if you feel that they are exhausted? How to cheer up a situation of extreme fatigue? VB: From the inside, where else, and from his two decades of experience. In the end, each man has a thirst for life. I was always someone waiting, someone peerezhivaet.It's like Saint-Exupery in the story "Terre des Hommes, about that pilot who crashed a plane high in the Andes. He could have died, but he vsegla remembered that he was waiting at the bottom that he someone roads, and this was its main driving force for which he was still alive. HPCru: Did you have this situation yesterday or today, for example? VB: It was not. Yesterday we were playing whist, and now raised in the high-altitude base camp. And then, of course, and another is not easy, but with risk to life is not related exactly:)) HPCru: How is the ascent of Meru? You can give yourself an assessment? VB: I think it is good. HPCru: How many hours you work on the wall? VB: When I work, I work 10-11 hours. It all depends on the situation. When will be a decisive assault, I can work through all 24 hours. Working day I have irregular :-). HPCru: Valery, you have so many competitors. How do you feel about that? This is your "spur" or annoying? VB: It's not that and not another. They are all very nice people, especially the four Japanese, with whom we live side by side and as good friends. HPCru: You said that you can usually anticipate, guess what will happen in the mountains. Your intuition is now "working"? And what did she tell you? VB: So far nothing has been said. To activate the intuition needed a complicated situation, but we will try to avoid it:) The interview was given on September 13 at 20.50 local time in a tent Valery Babanov and Igor Zdanovich, located in high-altitude base camp. The authors, translation: