Russian James Bond adventure in the Himalayas

As already known, June 1, Valery Babanov returned safely from an unusual journey in the Himalayas, whose goal was to attempt to conquer the peak of Meru Central. This mountain is famous for the fact that many have tried to climb it, but none is so far failed. From our newsletter you know that and this time did not succumb to the mysterious summit onslaught climber. Prevented the deceptive nature. But Valery did not lose hope yet to overcome the peak of Meru in the near future. The intrigue of this ascent was that the applicants for the first climb was three. Our competition Valeria was an eminent American mountaineer Peter Takeda, nicknamed the Big Wall (Great Wall) and his partner Deyv Sheldon. At the time of departure from the Himalayas Valeria Americans still had several days to climb. However, no system of communication they have, so the result of their expedition is still unknown. Travel Valery Babanov interesting by the fact that communication with the outside world during the ascent Valery used PDA Cassiopeia E-115, provided by the Company MakTsentr, in conjunction with a satellite phone system Inmarsat. In the Russian practice of such precedents did not exist. With this communication system, we have received and published the tape with the latest news of the expedition. On his return, Valery has kindly agreed to be interviewed edition of our site. I am pleased to present to you the most interesting moments of conversation. hPCru: Remember the adage: "A friend is known in trouble? Tell us, in your opinion can be called handheld a true friend? Did he tell you? Valery Babanov: Pocket PC I really liked and wanted to even own such a have. Very handy. When we asked Americans ascent parallel to us, try it, they were very surprised that a Russian general, there are similar things. When they saw it in my hands, and cried only: "James Bond!" Twice they sent to him by letters, they really liked it. But, more importantly, thanks to a PDA and satellite phone we Olga did not feel alienated from the world of civilization. We knew that at any moment be able to send news to home. We often receive letters from our friends. And it is very cheer up and gives strength. Therefore, assistance from him was great. I think I answered your question? .. hPCru: We know that when you left the Tapovana, the Americans continued their ascent. They reached the summit or not? VB: About Americans today not say anything definite. When we left, they were at an altitude of 5,900 m. By the way, this is their sixth attempt to conquer the Meru Central hPCru: By the way, what is the height of the summit? 6500? VB: It is not known. Measure should be considered a mythical mountain, center of the universe, they say that the top of its endless and goes into space. Nobody knows exactly its height can range from 6500 to 8000 m. Although (laughs Valery), about 8000 m of course I'm kidding ... In general, hard to conquer it. Total has already been made unsuccessful attempts to 12-13. hPCru: But you'll still be trying? VB: In late August I'm going back to that peak. The decision I made even before the departure from New Delhi. But this time I already know exactly what it was a mistake. Importantly, it is possible. I was in possession of a month. A month is not enough. To make it enough, you must either be born lucky to get to the good weather, or as all ... I was like everyone else. When we arrived, the weather was good for two weeks. But as soon as I started to climb up, after four good days of sunshine it is completely deteriorated. Then followed eight days of heavy snow, five of which I sat in limbo (literally and figuratively at the same time) in the platform on the mountain.When I went, naturally, I had all the supplies to a minimum. Second time to decide on such a long climb, I could not. The only thing I could have done - it's fast climb in alpine style, the easier but more dangerous because of possible avalanches route. However, the weather and there are not very conducive to me: time to climb the 300-400m, and then decided to go down. I stopped in time. Counting the cost, I realized that they were greatly enhanced if I am late. In particular, the purchase of new tickets would have cost a round sum.

When I went down, everything else was bad weather. As for the Americans, then they started on May 23. It was already their second attempt in the expedition. First they tried my route and found it quite difficult for myself and decided to return, as was originally planned to storm the mountain in the Alpine-style light. And along the route, which charted myself I so did not go up. And they decided to embark on their chosen for the first time, but more dangerous because of avalanches, route. When we left, was the sixth day of their climb, they were at around 5900-6000 meters long on no information.

Regardless of their results, their plans, I do not want to change, in August I'll be back in India. I will go the same route, I hope that my experience will greatly benefit the first attempt. Just change the tactics a little. Incidentally, in the autumn there will go for two expeditions: one - to the north of Meru, the other - to the central. So now the question is how do we with these expeditions do not intersect, and permission must be obtained.

July-August in the Himalayas - the period of the monsoons. Therefore there I want to come on August 25, then Sept. 1 will be in place. I hope I can get permission to mount two months before the end of October.

The Indian federation told me that will meet and give me permission for two months. For such highly technical climbing terms should be more than the usual route because the weather in the vicinity of the measure is about 6-7 days is good, 7-8 days is bad. The Himalayas are like in this sense on the roulette table - how to fall. hPCru: We heard that you met a hermit in the mountains? VB: Yes - laughing - climb the trail up the mountain. Suddenly, we see little to the side, sits an old man - a woman ... It turns out that he was 4 years no longer speak. He beckons to me with signs and wondered what I was going to do. Wrote on a piece of paper in English. English in his clumsy. But we understand each other. I say that I was going to climb on the measure. He asks:

- One?

- One - I'm talking about.

- He was very surprised that one. I say: you are the one you live here, and I'm one climb. Gave me some kind of a postcard, I took her with him on the measure. We thought it was a good sign. But we do not know what a "good sign". Maybe it means that I live down .... On the ninth day, when I went down, there was a terrible storm: the avalanche, one after another roar, it snows. Within five days I was forced to stay in the platform: first, hoping to continue to rise, only then would only come down safely. The platform was suspended at a height of 5,850 m. It is a round tent with a dense rigid bottom, looks like a cradle, only with a closed top. This is sort of a mobile home, which is a climber, climbing, pulling with him upstairs.

The weather changes very quickly: just that, it would seem, was the sun, a cloud suddenly swooped down, the wind starts and throws the snow. hPCru: Where was Olga? VB: In the base camp in 45 minutes. She is constantly seen me. We had and the optics themselves - spyglass. Olga is not only saw a piece of the platform. In addition, a portable radio, visual communication. This is strongly supported when you can talk to someone. However, it all depends on attitude: either you go with a portable radio set, or without. hPCru: Olga was not going with you to conquer the measure?

VB: It does not allow qualification. Going with me to climb up an Indian liaison officer, in our KGB men, but he went so far as high-altitude base camp. He was afraid that he fell into a crevasse. We were carrying everything yourself, without the Sherpas, the porters. In total, we have had with a 50-60 kg of equipment. It is very hard work. Moreover, it's hard psychologically, sometimes so eager to throw out everything! But some things are not so much as it seems, is collected only what is necessary.hPCru: A handheld computer is not turned over?

VB: No, no! - Laughs. - Cool, very cool. At first we worried about the batteries were afraid that they will not suffice. But you see, just enough, all right ... We were afraid that there will be problems with the smuggling of a satellite phone, so packed it in a trunk. It is said that the need for its passage of a special permit, or may be deleted. So that was driven at your own risk. When the back left, began to check the bag and was about to find out what this contraption is healthy. I had to pretend not to understand and say that there batteries and a special panel. India has banned GPS, and we were afraid that the phone - it's a GPS. Virtual keyboard used. Me as a novice user, not only PDAs, but also desktops, liked the virtual keyboard. On full-sized keyboard I'm typing even slower than this, quickly trained to get the stylus on the tiny buttons on the Cassiopeia E-115. hPCru: And Olga used a computer in some other way other than sending emails?

VB: None. We were very afraid of the batteries: they were afraid that they will sit down at the wrong time. We kept him constantly in heat. Treated him like a little kid - zavernesh it wrapped up, even somewhere myself refuse, if only it was warm. hPCru: And any failures or problems were encountered with the technique?

VB: No, especially no. The main problem with this machine - this is what it should be kept constantly in heat. Especially at night when it's cold. But the day was quite hot in the mountains, so it was nekruglosutochnaya headache. Well, I repeat, we are constantly feared for the batteries. We spent two sets of batteries. Them, we also kept in sleeping bags, heated. Since I recently came home desktop, I do not particularly long delved into this small handheld. I understand that there's all done in the image of a large and quite easy. Once I wanted a little "clean" it, because we have accumulated a large number of drafts of letters, see Deleted. Tried to destroy them, but I did not work, probably because you have it programmed. (Laughs) hPCru: Valery, and what can you say about the stability of your computer? Were there any freezing?

VB: No complaints about it whatsoever. Here are just a phone sometimes, probably due to bad weather, could not establish communication with the satellites and then had to wait for the letters. hPCru: How much did you spend time together satellite?

VB: An hour or one and a half - just do not know ... But we do this well enough to communicate with you. Sometimes there were problems with audibility, because the call, sometimes a lot easier than a letter to send ... But this is again due to bad weather or there were problems with the installation of communications with the satellite. But overall I must say that I really liked the quality of communication: voice practically not distorted, there was no interference. hPCru: And why, when you decide to make a second attempt to conquer the measure is not taken with a handheld satellite phone?

VB: It's all very heavy. We do not have a porter. One of the backpack with food and gas, 15-20 kg, and a satellite phone by itself weighs 3 kg. And since we had 2-3 days before the end of the expedition, I decided not to tinker with the equipment and do some light. Nothing serious, I did not plan. I tried only the route the Americans, but the weather again had no luck, and I was forced to descend. hPCru: And what was the total weight of the kit?

VB: Six or seven pounds was a set of communication - with batteries for the satellite phone and a charger to boot. By the way, it would be nice to the next campaign to take a solar battery as the month we hardly had enough of these two batteries for the satellite phone. Well, we borrowed a solar panel Americans, but I would not know that without it, and do ... It is quite compact, two-folding and weighs a little bit. It was enough for me to fully charge both batteries for the satellite phone.hPCru: You would like into the next expedition to bring this kit?

VB: Yes, and a satellite phone would have taken, and PDAs. If you can give him, I would be very grateful.

hPCru: Especially because there are industrial versions of the CPC, have improved reliability, moisture resistance and impact resistance.

VB: Oh-oo! it would be very good. Now, if you fall I set equipped with a typewriter ... hPCru: In your opinion, all climbers need such equipment?

VB: Well, if we talk about modern mountaineering, then yes. Maybe now, some conservatives, supporters of a pure sport, and will deny all this technology, but communication is increasingly part of our lives, and nowhere on it does not get to. In principle, I do not mind. For example, I discovered your site. I have regular customers who want to communicate with me. Why would I not answer their mail from the expedition? Besides, I think it's quite interesting to follow the climb, especially for specialists. And if you take a camera, we could send a picture with your phone. This is also fantastic! One of my American friend has organized such a project. It cost a lot of money, but with the help of special equipment, he could drive out video picture on your site. And in that day, when he was almost near the top, the number of visitors, watching his ascent has exceeded 3 million. In total he received 500 thousand emails. hPCru: Probably, in such expeditions must proceed on the laptops?

VB: Yes, he had a laptop and camcorder. In general, it was extremely interesting. But, on the other hand, the small expedition, consisting of 2-3 people, no longer take a laptop. PDA - is an optimal solution. The authors, translation:

HPCru